Tomatillos are the extroverts of the garden. They sprawl. They flower like they’re throwing a block party.
And (plot twist) they usually need a buddy to make fruit. So if you’re growing tomatillos, you’re already
halfway into companion plantingyou might as well do it on purpose.
The goal of companion plants for tomatillos isn’t garden “magic.” It’s practical teamwork:
bring in pollinators, confuse pests, use space better, and keep the soil covered. In this guide, you’ll get
7 of the best companion plants for tomatillos, plus layout ideas, what to avoid, and a real-world
“what actually happens” section at the end.
Why Tomatillos Love Company
Tomatillos (Physalis species, cousins of tomatoes) grow fast and branch wideoften 3–4 feet tall and wide.
They also tend to produce best when insects can cross-pollinate flowers between at least two plants.
That means your garden needs:
- Pollinator traffic (bees, hoverflies, beneficial wasps)
- Pest pressure relief (aphids, flea beetles, whiteflies, thripsaka the tiny villains)
- Space efficiency (tomatillos shade the ground; smaller companions can live in that real estate)
Companion planting won’t replace good gardening basics (sun, water, airflow, crop rotation), but it can tilt the odds
in your favorespecially if you pick companions that share similar needs: full sun, steady moisture, and decent soil.
The 7 Best Companion Plants for Tomatillos
These picks are popular for a reason: they’re easy to grow, they play nicely with tomatillos, and they support the
big threepollination, pest management, and smart spacing.
1) Basil
Basil is the classic “nice neighbor” for many nightshades, and tomatillos are no exception. Its strong aroma can help
disrupt pest scouting (think: “Where’s the tomatillo?”) while its flowers feed beneficial insects when you let a few plants
bloom.
- Best benefit: Helpful insect activity and potential reduction of certain pests in related crops.
- How to plant it: Tuck basil around the outer drip line of tomatillos, about 10–12 inches from stems.
- Bonus: You’ll walk outside for basil and come back with salsa verde ingredients. Efficient.
2) Cilantro
Cilantro is a two-for-one: it’s a kitchen MVP, and when it flowers, it becomes a magnet for small beneficial insects
(like hoverflies and tiny parasitic wasps) that can help suppress soft-bodied pests. If you’ve ever watched aphids
multiply overnight like they’ve discovered free Wi-Fi, you’ll appreciate that.
- Best benefit: Attracts beneficial insects once it bolts and blooms.
- How to plant it: Sow in clusters near tomatillos; succession-sow every 2–3 weeks for a longer harvest.
- Hot tip: Cilantro likes cooler weatheruse tomatillo shade to slow bolting in warm climates.
3) Marigolds (Tagetes)
Marigolds are basically the garden’s welcome sign for pollinatorswhile also acting like a mild “no thanks” signal to
some pests. Companion planting research is mixed across crops, but marigolds are widely used because they’re easy,
bright, and they increase overall garden biodiversity (which generally helps).
- Best benefit: Adds beneficial insect habitat; may help reduce certain pest issues in nearby crops.
- How to plant it: Use marigolds as a border or “punctuation marks” every 18–24 inches along the bed edge.
- Don’t overdo it: A few well-placed plants work better than turning the whole bed into a marigold festival.
4) Nasturtiums
Nasturtiums are the lovable troublemakers: they sprawl, they bloom like crazy, and they’re famous as a trap crop
for pests like aphids and flea beetles. The idea is simplegive pests a tastier “decoy” plant so your tomatillos take
fewer hits.
- Best benefit: Trap-cropping potential; ground cover that helps reduce splashing soil onto leaves.
- How to plant it: Put nasturtiums at bed corners or the sunny edge, a foot or more away from tomatillo stems.
- Practical move: If nasturtiums get infested, prune hard or remove the worst leaves before pests migrate.
5) Onions (and other alliums like chives or garlic)
Alliums bring that “pungent roommate” energy. Their odor is one reason gardeners use them near nightshades to help
discourage certain pests. Onions also don’t compete heavily above ground, which matters when tomatillos are already
hogging the spotlight.
- Best benefit: Potential pest deterrence + efficient space use (upright leaves, small footprint).
- How to plant it: Grow onions in a front row, 4–6 inches apart, so they don’t block airflow around tomatillos.
- Extra credit: Chives can be tucked into gaps; let a few bloom for pollinators.
6) Borage
If your goal is “more pollinators for tomatillo flowers,” borage is a strong pick. It’s known for producing nectar-rich
blooms that attract a wide variety of insects. It can get large, thoughso think of it as a nearby pollinator beacon,
not a plant you cram under your tomatillo canopy.
- Best benefit: Pollinator attraction (bees, hoverflies, and other beneficials).
- How to plant it: Place borage 1–2 feet away from tomatillos, ideally on the north side so it doesn’t shade them.
- Containment tip: Deadhead or harvest flowers if you don’t want surprise borage next season.
7) Bush Beans
Beans are often recommended because legumes can fix nitrogen with the help of soil bacteria. In a home garden, the
biggest payoff is usually long-term soil buildingespecially when you leave roots or compost residuesrather than
instant “free fertilizer” piped directly into your tomatillos. Still, bush beans are excellent companions because they
fill space, shade soil, and keep your bed productive.
- Best benefit: Efficient space use + soil support over time (especially if residues are returned to the bed).
- How to plant it: Plant bush beans on the sunny side of tomatillos, leaving enough room for airflow and harvest access.
- Keep expectations realistic: Think “soil strategy,” not “nitrogen IV drip.”
Easy Tomatillo Companion Planting Layouts
Here are three simple, repeatable ways to combine these tomatillo companion plants without turning your bed
into a tangled soap opera.
Layout A: The Pollinator Ring (Great for yields)
- 2–3 tomatillos spaced 30–36 inches apart
- Borage planted nearby (not inside the tomatillo jungle)
- Marigolds dotted along the bed edge
- Cilantro patches in gaps for flowering beneficials
Layout B: The Pest-Decoy Border (Great for aphid season)
- Tomatillos in the center, staked or caged
- Nasturtiums at corners/outer edge as a trap crop
- Alliums (onions/chives) in a front row
Layout C: The “Full Pantry” Bed (Great for small spaces)
- Tomatillos + basil around the drip line
- Bush beans in the sunniest open strip
- Cilantro succession-sown wherever you can still see soil
Companion Planting Rules That Actually Matter
Plant at least two tomatillos
Tomatillos typically need cross-pollination. If you plant one, you may get lots of flowers and very little fruit.
Plant two (or more), and let insects do the matchmaking.
Airflow beats “cute crowded beds”
Tomatillos are vigorous. If you cram companions too close, you raise humidity and reduce airflow, which can
increase disease risk. Keep the center open, use companions around the edges, and prune lightly if the plant
becomes a leafy octopus.
Use companions as tools, not mascots
Each companion should have a job: attract pollinators, distract pests, or cover soil. If a plant isn’t doing the job
(or it’s causing a new problem), move it, prune it, or replace it. No hard feelings.
What Not to Plant Right Next to Tomatillos
Most problems come from shared pests/diseases or aggressive competition. A few cautionary notes:
- Potatoes: They’re in the same general family ecosystem of pests and diseases, and they can increase the “shared problems” factor.
- Fennel: Often cited as a poor neighbor in mixed beds because of allelopathic potential (chemical interference with nearby plants).
- Anything that blocks airflow: Big vining squash right on top of tomatillo stems can turn your bed into a mildew spa.
of Real-World Companion Planting Notes for Tomatillos
No, I’m not going to tell you I personally grew tomatillos on a sacred mountaintop during a full moon while chanting
to the salsa gods. But gardeners do share consistent, repeatable experiences with tomatillo companion plantingespecially
when they keep the expectations practical. Here are the “field notes” that show up again and again.
First: tomatillos surprise people with size. Many gardeners start with “two little seedlings” and end with
“two sprawling shrubs auditioning to be hedges.” The most common companion-planting adjustment is simply
moving companions outward. Basil that starts 6 inches away becomes basil that gets relocated to the edge when the
tomatillo canopy doubles in July.
Second: cilantro is frequently treated like a spring crop and a beneficial-insect crop, not just an herb.
Gardeners sow cilantro early, harvest heavily, then let a portion bolt. Once it flowers, people often notice more tiny
“good bugs” hovering around blooms. The big takeaway: cilantro doesn’t need to stay perfect. Even when it gets
leggy, it can still be useful.
Third: nasturtiums are the drama magnetsand that can be helpful. A common experience is that aphids (or
flea beetles) show up on nasturtiums first, especially if the nasturtiums are on the sunny edge. Some gardeners
love this because it acts like an early warning system. Others hate it because it looks messy. The compromise that
works: plant nasturtiums where you can easily prune, and don’t be afraid to remove a plant if it’s turning into a
pest hotel.
Fourth: marigolds are the “set it and forget it” companion. Gardeners like them because they’re cheerful,
low-maintenance, and they make the bed look intentionallike you planned it, rather than accidentally creating a
tomatillo jungle. Even when marigolds don’t “solve” pest problems, many growers keep them because they boost
overall garden diversity and draw attention (and insects) into the area.
Fifth: borage is beloved and feared. People notice the pollinator activity fastespecially bees. But borage
can get big and can self-seed if you let it. The best real-world tactic is planting borage slightly off to the side as a
pollinator beacon and treating it like a “support plant” rather than something you weave tightly into the bed.
Sixth: onions and chives are often used as “gap fillers.” Growers tuck them into open spots near the front
of the bed and appreciate that they don’t compete much with tomatillos above ground. Plus, harvesting an onion
feels like a win even if the tomatillos are still deciding whether to fruit.
Finally: the biggest “experience lesson” is that companion planting works best when you combine it with
the boring stuff: two or more tomatillos for pollination, cages or stakes to prevent sprawl from swallowing companions,
consistent watering, and enough spacing for airflow. When gardeners do that, the companions become boostersnot
crutchesand the harvest usually follows.
Conclusion
If you’ve been wondering what to plant with tomatillos, start with companions that do real jobs:
basil and cilantro for beneficial insects (and cooking), marigolds for biodiversity,
nasturtiums as a potential trap crop, onions for space-smart diversity, borage for pollinators,
and bush beans for productivity and longer-term soil support. Keep airflow in mind, plant at least two tomatillos,
and treat companions like adjustable toolsnot permanent furniture.